Having The Right Leader at the Right Time

The task of putting together a successful team of high ego athletes is one of the great leadership challenges there is. Mountain climbing is no different. The egos of climbers are huge, and the opportunities for failure great. At least with a baseball or football team, someone else is responsible for the recruiting and cash management. In mountain climbing, the team leader usually has the responsibility for all those things. A misstep in football might mean a lost game, or even a championship. A misstep in climbing can mean death.

The Canadian Expedition started, as many great ventures, on the back of a napkin in a bar. Canmore-based climber Roger Marshall was sitting around a table with a few of his climbing buddies when the topic of climbing Everest came up. A few beverages and a couple of cocktail napkins later, a plan was in motion to have the first Canadian team climb Everest.

Marshall’s plan was simple, as napkin-based planning systems often are. A small team of climbers would use the South Col route for a fast ascent of Everest. The South Col was the best choice because it was the most common route and had the best chance for success. A small team would keep costs low.

Just a few months after the initial tavern planning meeting, “Project Creep” had taken hold. Others in the climbing community wanted to be part of this adventure. The team had grown, and some wanted to try a more challenging route. Roger Marshall had lost control of the original small scale assault team, and was replaced as leader by Greg Kinnear.

Kinnear brought organization to the group. He hired a skilled climber, John Amatt, as business manager. Amatt was able to secure a major sponsorship from Air Canada, and organized the logistical and fund raising challenges that a large scale project required. The team worked on designing and stockpiling specialized equipment. Training climbs were scheduled for various other mountain peaks around the world.

But relations were being strained in the group. Marshall’s friends and Kinnear’s friends were frequently at odds. A third group tried to remain neutral, but was affected by the hubris of the other groups. Kinnear was diagnosed with an eye ailment that would be dangerous for him at high altitude. It became apparent that Kinnear could not lead the group on its mission. The group took a vote, and Bill March was elected group leader. March immediately appointed Lloyd Gallagher as his second. A quiet but firm man, the group had recognized that March had the abilities to lead the team to success.

So before getting to the mountain, the team is already on its third leader. What lesson does that have for us? First, we should always remember that the leader that got us started may not be the leader that helps us finish. Unlike your high school prom, organizations shouldn’t concentrate on making sure that they go home with the one that brought them.

Different leaders bring different skills to the table. Marshall brought an enthusiasm and zeal to the goal of climbing Everest, but wasn’t the best organizer. Kinnear was an organizational guru. But when it became apparent he wouldn’t be able to physically make the climb, another leader needed to be chosen. Bill March was an experienced climber who had the respect of his teammates. Different leaders who brought different skills at different times to the mission. And each was needed in their time and place, but there was no fear to replace the leader when new leadership was needed.

Second, this has implications for our own careers. Not only should organizations be prepared to replace leadership when needed, but individuals need to be prepared to move on when their time is up. This is perhaps the greatest challenge – recognizing that our time has passed and we need to toss the torch to new hands. It shouldn’t be viewed as failure. As this team recognized, there are different skills required for different parts of any venture. To keep an individual in a leadership position when they lack the necessary skills places the entire team at risk.

Next week – death on the mountain threatens to tear the team apart, and Bill March shows amazing leadership skills dealing with the events.